Question Removing a C7 Battery

  • Thread starter Thread starter YFCvii
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Keeping honest.
Why I mentioned to be patient when pulling the c7 battery from the very tight cubby. Took a while but Finally got something fixed today …

Dang it - if you have “OCD”. 😫
YYSSW - if one doesn’t give a crap. 😤

tried the later but it’s a “once you know its there” thing … 🤪

The damaged vent tube fitting …

View attachment 86150
Glad to see you finally broke something Spence. 🤣 Was it on 'his' or 'hers'?
 
That’s so funny. Ya my C7 is first in line for taking apart and putting back together and that’s the story I’m gonna stick with … 😇👍🏻
Oh, so you broke hers and used your part to fix hers.🤣
 
Oh, so you broke hers and used your part to fix hers.🤣
I found the instructions useful, thanks! One thing I found, (I just replaced the battery in the car while in storage). I haven’t started the car. The remote button to pop rear lid, doesn’t work. I do have a new battery in remote as well. Did anyone experience this? My initial guess is I must likely need to start the car. I will try that when warmer and I take car out of storage.
Cheers!
 
I found the instructions useful, thanks! One thing I found, (I just replaced the battery in the car while in storage). I haven’t started the car. The remote button to pop rear lid, doesn’t work. I do have a new battery in remote as well. Did anyone experience this? My initial guess is I must likely need to start the car. I will try that when warmer and I take car out of storage.
Cheers!
I neglected to mention I have a convertible.
 
Yes, they lock and unlock. That’s why I found it weird.
Don't know what year your car is or anything about the C7's really, but remotes, like any remote, gets gummed up and they have to be taken apart and cleaned from time to time. I'd try the other fob to make sure it's not the remote itself.
 
I found the instructions useful, thanks! One thing I found, (I just replaced the battery in the car while in storage). I haven’t started the car. The remote button to pop rear lid, doesn’t work. I do have a new battery in remote as well. Did anyone experience this? My initial guess is I must likely need to start the car. I will try that when warmer and I take car out of storage.
Cheers!
Assuming yours is a C7, do both remotes and the exterior button above license plate all fail? If not, you have isolated the issue to one or the other and not the opening device itself (or an electronic anomaly in your c7).
If remote only fails, then do both? If one works, then you have it further isolated.

Happy you found my post helpful for replacing the battery and appreciate the followup as well.
 
Don't know what year your car is or anything about the C7's really, but remotes, like any remote, gets gummed up and they have to be taken apart and cleaned from time to time. I'd try the other fob to make sure it's not the remote itself.
Hi Murray,
It’s a 2016 and both remotes operate in the same manor. I will try to update this post when I actually start and run the car around the block.
Thanks.
 
Hi Murray,
It’s a 2016 and both remotes operate in the same manor. I will try to update this post when I actually start and run the car around the block.
Thanks.
Assuming both remotes don’t open it …
Does button above license plate open it?
I am a c7 owner and the OP.
 
Assuming yours is a C7, do both remotes and the exterior button above license plate all fail? If not, you have isolated the issue to one or the other and not the opening device itself (or an electronic anomaly in your c7).
If remote only fails, then do both? If one works, then you have it further isolated.

Happy you found my post helpful for replacing the battery and appreciate the followup as well.
Yes 2016 C7 and I went with flood battery not A
Assuming yours is a C7, do both remotes and the exterior button above license plate all fail? If not, you have isolated the issue to one or the other and not the opening device itself (or an electronic anomaly in your c7).
If remote only fails, then do both? If one works, then you have it further isolated.

Happy you found my post helpful for replacing the battery and appreciate the followup as well.
Yes a 2016 C7. I went with a flood battery not an AGM as some suppliers try to talk you into.
Assuming both remotes don’t open it …
Does button above license plate open it?
I am a c7 owner and the OP.
No the button above license plate does not open the rear hatch, only via the key hole.
 
Yes 2016 C7 and I went with flood battery not A

Yes a 2016 C7. I went with a flood battery not an AGM as some suppliers try to talk you into.

No the button above license plate does not open the rear hatch, only via the key hole.

Does button above license plate open it?
The anomaly is not likely the remotes now.
So startup would definitely be the next attempt for reset and resolve. The disconnection of the power source (battery) has likely tweaked some thing “inoperative”. So when startup attempt is completed … Hope life is back to normal 🙏🏻
 
I am coming up to the need to change my battery soon would it be advantageous to put a battery minder on the positive and negative cables while pulling the battery so that a continuous power source is left on the car? If so is it better to do it in the truck or in the cars power source at the centre console?
 
I am coming up to the need to change my battery soon would it be advantageous to put a battery minder on the positive and negative cables while pulling the battery so that a continuous power source is left on the car? If so is it better to do it in the truck or in the cars power source at the centre console?
The plug in the trunk is the only "live" olug so that is the one to maintain power to the car. The centre console plug is only active when the car is operating.
If you plug a power pack in to the truck plug you will have power to the battery terminal from it. So even with the battery removed you need to keep the positive terminal isolated from the car.
 
Ya, be very careful if you do that. One normally disconnects the ground first so the ratchet can hit the chassis all it wants to. If you hook up the maintainer you'll have to watch the ratchet at all times and keep the positive well away from ground.
I'm not up on a C7. I know there is a lot of plastic and fibreglass, but aluminum conducts as well.
 
The plug in the trunk is the only "live" olug so that is the one to maintain power to the car. The centre console plug is only active when the car is operating.
If you plug a power pack in to the truck plug you will have power to the battery terminal from it. So even with the battery removed you need to keep the positive terminal isolated from the car.
Have you done the battery replacement with the power on as you are indicating ?
 
I am coming up to the need to change my battery soon would it be advantageous to put a battery minder on the positive and negative cables while pulling the battery so that a continuous power source is left on the car? If so is it better to do it in the truck or in the cars power source at the centre console?
Unless you have a battery tender different than the 5 I have on various equipment here on my farm, a tender does not emit any voltage unless it is connected to an actual battery. Turn your tender on and check with a multimeter and I think you will find you will get no reading. If you don't have a multimeter, strike the clamps together quickly. No spark = no power.
 
I am coming up to the need to change my battery soon would it be advantageous to put a battery minder on the positive and negative cables while pulling the battery so that a continuous power source is left on the car? If so is it better to do it in the truck or in the cars power source at the centre console?
I don't see why you couldn't take another spare battery and connect it to the battery cables on the car with jumper cables and then loosen and remove the cables connected to the car battery thereby maintaining power . Pull out the battery, drop in the new one and replace the cables and then remove the jumper cables .
 

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