Interesting.
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Interesting.
I think the Motor Oil Geek Mobil 1 vid did mentioned a slight chemistry difference in the higher amount of ZDDP in Super Car oil? Maybe with the failure of the LT6/Z06 that they altered the formulation? I am just speculating? I have to watch that again in the second part of the vid where he compares 0w-40s including Super Car.One aspect I've been looking for an answer to;
what's the distinction between Mobil 1 0W-40 European car formula, and Mobil 1 0W-40 Dexos, other than a big price jump?
Given the difference in price between either oil and the cost of replacing an LT2 engine, owch, I would definitely be using the factory recommended lubricant. Even if you were lucky enough to have it done under warranty there goes most of the driving season likely. I can’t figure out why with the small difference of a couple of bucks a litre that anyone wouldn’t really. After all these are $100,000 + vehicles. Oil cheap, engine expensive. Oil Geek guy certainly seems like he really knows what he’s talking about.I think the Motor Oil Geek Mobil 1 vid did mentioned a slight chemistry difference in the higher amount of ZDDP in Super Car oil? Maybe with the failure of the LT6/Z06 that they altered the formulation? I am just speculating? I have to watch that again in the second part of the vid where he compares 0w-40s including Super Car.
There is a .0000000001% chance the difference in the 2 oils would cause engine failure. However, I do agree if you are under warranty. Don't give GM any excuse to deny.Given the difference in price between either oil and the cost of replacing an LT2 engine, owch, I would definitely be using the factory recommended lubricant. Even if you were lucky enough to have it done under warranty there goes most of the driving season likely. I can’t figure out why with the small difference of a couple of bucks a litre that anyone wouldn’t really. After all these are $100,000 + vehicles. Oil cheap, engine expensive. Oil Geek guy certainly seems like he really knows what he’s talking about.
GM when it comes to warranty claims are probably as much fun to deal with as an insurance company…….There is a .0000000001% chance the difference in the 2 oils would cause engine failure. However, I do agree if you are under warranty. Don't give GM any excuse to deny.

If you think about your vehicle that you do drive all year round regardless of the engine oil type the viscosity changes significantly depending on the time of year. Here for example we can have a temperature difference of as much as 80 degrees celsius or 175 degrees fahrenheit . Use the factory recommended oil and go light the barbecue and open a nice red .I was just thinking that most of us doesn't drive our cars in the winter that adding a mixture of 2-3 quarts of Mobil 1 15w-50 track oil for an slightly thicker oil film protection/wear. In the vid, he said that a thin oil will give the max wear protection at higher piston speed. Since 99% of us doesn't consistently shift at 6500, a slightly thicker oil will give it the best protection at normal shifting 2500-3500, logically thinking?
I can do that at 5k interval between oem recommend oil change interval at the dealership.
Sounds like a six martini affair……..Instead of watching 20 minutes of Geek guy, I drove through the car wash, dressed my tires and met a friend for lunch. Ok that sucked up 3 hours of my day and the oil thing would be over my head lol...

Couple more draft here , thanks….I'm not that fancy...
I agree, use the Dexos at whatever cost, to keep GM happy.Given the difference in price between either oil and the cost of replacing an LT2 engine, owch, I would definitely be using the factory recommended lubricant. Even if you were lucky enough to have it done under warranty there goes most of the driving season likely. I can’t figure out why with the small difference of a couple of bucks a litre that anyone wouldn’t really. After all these are $100,000 + vehicles. Oil cheap, engine expensive. Oil Geek guy certainly seems like he really knows what he’s talking about.
I think straight grade for racing normally because the absence of additives that wouldn't break down the oil during racing? That's my guess.Where does no range fit in? SAE-30? Besides in my lawn mower ...
All oil regardless of rating will be thicker when cold and thinner when hot obviously but for cold extremes like -40c you should be using a 0 weight is what I took from the explanation. I had a 1989 GMC that called for 10w30 conventional oil and when I simply changed to synthetic oil the difference in how it would crank at -40 was pretty significant. The synthetic was also 10w30 . Was with a friend who had to move an old van from where it was stored one February day back in the eighties and he remembered that the oil was low and wanted to add a quart which he had in the box of his pickup. Took the cap off , turned it upside down and nada , lol . So imagine that oil sitting in the oil pan when you go to fire the engine. It was about-46c that day. Ambient.That ball bearing test doesn't make sense to me.
If 5w30 oil cold acts like a 5w it is supposed to act like a thinner oil and the ball should drop quicker, not slower.
I know cold oil should be thicker and should do what it did, but that's not what he was trying to prove.
What am I missing?