Looking for some advise on what C6 to buy

[Rruuff Day]

But would that cover that particular flaw (or issue)?

Give Dave or Nigel at RaceReady Garage a call. Mention CCF sent you. They are one of the best Corvette garages in Canada. Tell them what you are considering and whether it can be determined if the heads have been done on an LS7. Here's their number. (226) 887-7103

 

[Blu427]

I purchased my 2006 C6 Z new and fortunately from a dealer who was a Corvette enthusiast (Bill Wallace)
who did the valve/head repairs before he let me take it home.
In the 20 years I have owned it, I have only replaced the battery once, two years ago. It still wears it's original tires,
(although I plan on replacing this year) Everything else is " as it came from the factory"
It is an exhilarating drive, available in manual only in 2006, its' first year of production. I have owned every generation
except a C7 (which I expect is an improved C6) and it is by far my favourite.
If I could keep only one of my Vettes it would be the C6 Z. There is no comparison to that giant leap it
takes when you hit 2nd gear, and I can get my golf bag and push cart in the hatch, which I can't do with the C8.

 

[audi911]

I'm happy to say that I will most likely be picking up an 06 Z tomorrow. I'll post back if everything goes to plan and it's in my garage.
Crossing my fingers and toes!

 

[eddyace]

what are the going prices for a c6z in canada today?
I'm looking an 06
I like that model
Thanks!

I was thinking of selling my 2006 Z06 this summer for $65K. Silver & stock from factory with 57000km on it. I'm 57 years old & I baby this car, just like to have something to cruise in that my wife & kids don't trash, but its time to move on. I considered getting Katech heads. I've read a lot of comments on the valve issue, nothing official, & all from the average couch mechanic. Many of the problems were posted from guys racing their cars, some put bronze guides & still dropped a valve. Some put after market heads & then had a variety of engine failures. Based on what I've been reading I think if I sell, I will sell it as is because if a buyer wants more power then they can do the head & cam package of their choosing rather than mine. Also I've seen many Z06's for sale that had recent engine work making me think why would the guy want to sell their car after doing all this work if it wasn't leaking oil or just handled like sh_t as a dialy driver??

 

[eddyace]

I purchased my 2006 C6 Z new and fortunately from a dealer who was a Corvette enthusiast (Bill Wallace)
who did the valve/head repairs before he let me take it home.
In the 20 years I have owned it, I have only replaced the battery once, two years ago. It still wears it's original tires,
(although I plan on replacing this year) Everything else is " as it came from the factory"
It is an exhilarating drive, available in manual only in 2006, its' first year of production. I have owned every generation
except a C7 (which I expect is an improved C6) and it is by far my favourite.
If I could keep only one of my Vettes it would be the C6 Z. There is no comparison to that giant leap it
takes when you hit 2nd gear, and I can get my golf bag and push cart in the hatch, which I can't do with the C8.

How did he know about the valve issue in 2006?

 

[Blu427]

How did he know about the valve issue in 2006?

I don't know how he knew other than I bought the car in August and it was in his dealership from May.
He had an extensive personal Vette collection and owned 6 dealerships including Airport Chev where I
purchased it.
He was/is very well connected and like most vehicle defects those connected hear about them long
before the general public.
All he told me was "there are some valve issues and I had my shop repair them".

 

[Blu427]

I was thinking of selling my 2006 Z06 this summer for $65K. Silver & stock from factory with 57000km on it. I'm 57 years old & I baby this car, just like to have something to cruise in that my wife & kids don't trash, but its time to move on. I considered getting Katech heads. I've read a lot of comments on the valve issue, nothing official, & all from the average couch mechanic. Many of the problems were posted from guys racing their cars, some put bronze guides & still dropped a valve. Some put after market heads & then had a variety of engine failures. Based on what I've been reading I think if I sell, I will sell it as is because if a buyer wants more power then they can do the head & cam package of their choosing rather than mine. Also I've seen many Z06's for sale that had recent engine work making me think why would the guy want to sell their car after doing all this work if it wasn't leaking oil or just handled like sh_t as a dialy driver??

Andy Munro has a 2007 Z 2LZ with 53,000 kms on it listed at $59,900

 

[eddyace]

Andy Munro has a 2007 Z 2LZ with 53,000 kms on it listed at $59,900

Not sure if I've seen that one yet. I've listed the car on Autotrader; I get a lot of responses from guys trying to get me to go down to a regular C6 price.

 

[1st Vette]

Not sure if I've seen that one yet. I've listed the car on Autotrader; I get a lot of responses from guys trying to get me to go down to a regular C6 price.

Tell them to " go down " ........

 

[eddyace]

I'm not personally familiar with the potential issues you may encounter but a quick search found the following. Pour a coffee........ and here is a link to the Perplexity AI page of results . The footnotes linking to the source of the information don't copy/paste but if you hit the link they will be there so you can check where each result originated. You should do a separate Carfax check as well when you get a VIN . Free VIN Decoder: VIN Check & Lookup in Canada | CARFAX Canada (https://www.carfax.ca/tools/vin-decode)

https://www.perplexity.ai/search/main-issues-with-the-2006-z-06-aWzNp.4kToW1PrtX6H8zJA

The 2006 Z06 is an incredible car, but the early LS7 and C6 chassis do have some well‑known problem areas you’ll want to screen hard before buying.����Biggest known issuesLS7 valvetrain and valve guidesPremature exhaust valve guide wear and out‑of‑round guides can lead to a dropped valve and catastrophic engine failure on LS7s (particularly early C6 Z06 like 2006).����Contributing factors include tight/incorrect guide clearances from the factory, aggressive cam profiles, and side‑loading from the rocker geometry at higher lifts.��There is no reliable way to tell “good” from “bad” LS7 heads by casting number or VIN alone; many specialists recommend assuming the heads need to be checked or rebuilt if not already done.��General LS7 wear pointsHigh‑rev use and track time can accelerate lifter, rocker, and valve spring wear, increasing the risk of valvetrain problems.��Metal in the oil or filter can be an early sign of valvetrain or bottom‑end distress.�Driveline (transaxle and differential)C6 rear differentials and transaxles can fail if abused (burnouts, clutch dumps, big power, sticky tires), often showing up first as whining, clunking, or metal in the diff fluid.�Once cracks or internal damage begin in a high‑stress gearbox, they do not self‑heal and will progress with use.�Age‑related C6 issues (not Z06‑specific but common at this age)Bushings, shocks, and control arm components wear and can cause looseness, vibration, or uneven tire wear on older C6s.�General used‑car issues: brakes, cooling system, belts/hoses, battery, and exhaust condition should be checked like any performance car.��What to insist on before you buyDocumentation of LS7 head/valve guide workAsk for invoices showing the cylinder heads have been rebuilt or replaced by a reputable shop (guide replacement, proper clearances, often new valves and springs).���If there is no proof of head work, factor the cost of pulling the heads and having guides measured or rebuilt into your offer; many LS7 specialists essentially treat this as mandatory insurance.���Professional pre‑purchase inspection (PPI)Have a performance‑savvy shop do a full inspection including engine, driveline, suspension, brakes, and frame, following a structured checklist (fluids, leaks, bushings, alignment, brakes, etc.).��Ask them specifically to listen for valvetrain noise, check for misfires, check for metal in oil, and inspect the underside for leaks or damage.���Specific checks on the LS7Engine health checksWarm compression and leak‑down tests across all cylinders to screen for existing sealing issues.��Bore‑scope of combustion chambers if the shop can do it, looking for impact marks or abnormal deposits that might hint at valve problems.�Valvetrain/guide statusIf you are serious and there is no documentation, the gold standard is pulling the heads and measuring guide clearance and wear; many teardown videos show significant play on problem LS7 guides.��Short of that, listen for ticking, knocking, or inconsistent valvetrain noise at idle and under light load, and check for misfire codes.��Oil and maintenance historyConfirm frequent oil changes with the correct spec oil and long‑term use of high RPM or track events, since hard use plus poor maintenance accelerates LS7 failures.��Have the shop cut open the oil filter and inspect for metallic debris as part of the inspection.�Chassis, driveline, and general items to checkDifferential, transaxle, and rear endRoad‑test for whining or howling under steady cruise and on/off throttle, clunks when taking up drive, or vibration at speed, all of which can signal diff or transaxle issues.��Inspect diff and trans fluid; visible metal or burnt smell is a bad sign.�Suspension, steering, brakesInspect control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rods, and sway bar links for play or deterioration; worn parts are common on older performance cars.��Check for even tire wear, which reflects alignment and suspension health; cupping or inner‑edge wear can indicate problems.��Confirm brake pad thickness, rotor condition, and proper brake operation with no pulling or vibration.�Body, frame, and underbodyPut the car on a lift and inspect the frame rails, suspension mounting points, and underbody for accident repairs, cracks, or bent components.��Look for evidence of track abuse (rubber buildup, scraped undertray, aftermarket track parts) and decide if that matches how you plan to use the car.�Paperwork and deal strategyService records and modificationsFavour cars with thick paper trails: oil changes, clutch/diff services, and especially documented LS7 head work by a known shop.��Be cautious with heavily modified examples (big cams, high‑lift valvetrain, forced induction) because these changes can aggravate the LS7’s inherent valvetrain weaknesses if not done correctly.��Pricing with risk in mindPrice the car assuming you may need to budget for LS7 head work if there is no proof it has been done; many owners treat this like a preventive rebuild cost of ownership.���If you have a specific 2006 Z06 in mind (mileage, mods, and what documentation is available), share the details and I can help you decide how hard to push on price and which inspection items to prioritize.

wow, most of that really applies to ALL cars but then again the average guy won't be that thorough. I'm biased cause I have Z06 up for sale but I'd prefer a stock Z06 over a heavily modded one. Ya you can say the valve thing is addressed but the buyers not getting the mods he chose, probably been driven hard and put away wet, and I'm wary of a seller that did a lot of engine work 2 months before selling.

 

[1st Vette]

wow, most of that really applies to ALL cars but then again the average guy won't be that thorough. I'm biased cause I have Z06 up for sale but I'd prefer a stock Z06 over a heavily modded one. Ya you can say the valve thing is addressed but the buyers not getting the mods he chose, probably been driven hard and put away wet, and I'm wary of a seller that did a lot of engine work 2 months before selling.

I hear ya . Hard to sell them if they aren't running." Repaired "of course depends on what was done and who did the work.