Looking for help...car won't start

PTTaylor

PTTaylor

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Jul 1, 2018
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2007 C6 Convertible
Looking for help

2007 C6 Corvette. Driving car today every thing was fine. Stop at store and when I try and start car ....nothing!!!... All the electronics work...windows up down no prob...convertible top up down no prob....radio etc...etc...etc...no prob. Start button is lit up but when I press it....Nothing. Let out clutch and gauges light up dials do there thing and car keeps chiming for a bit. First suspect fob...wife brings 2nd fob....same thing...no start....hmmmm...change batteries in both fobs.....no luck. Tried putting fobs in slot in glove compartment...no luck????

Over the next 2 hours I tried a few more times...no success...then after 2 1/2 hours....try again and Bingo....starts right up. Drive home park in garage...turn off...try to start ....and nothing...won't start.

Any ideas ????
 
I would have the car battery load tested especially if it’s over 5 years old. On newer cars if the battery is poor the attempt to start will pull the voltage down lower that the onboard computer can operate and prevent a start. Not like the old days where you could run a battery until it was on its last legs.
 
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I have checked the starter and its fine...battery is new....I am now thinking it could be the clutch safety switch?...To get up under the dash to replace it I think I will have to remove the drivers seat :-(
 
PTTaylor said:
I have checked the starter and its fine...battery is new....I am now thinking it could be the clutch safety switch?...To get up under the dash to replace it I think I will have to remove the drivers seat :-(
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Hi.

This problem is a bit intermittent so I sorta doubt it will be an electrical compnent issue. Usually when an electric part fails they comletely stop working.

I never had a maual Vette but first, maybe you can reach under the dash to press the switch with your finger then try the start button? .... you might eliminate the switch as the culprit without tearing out the drivers seat ....?

You might try the same thing on the brake pedal?

.... I'm hoping this is simple and you're back on the road soon.
:Cheers2:
 
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Boy now I'm screwed....went out this morning prepared to remove driver's seat to try and troubleshhot clutch safety switch and BAM car started no problem...turned it off...waited a few minutes and it started again no prob. Now I don't have any idea what caused the problem in the first place and not sure about taking the car out in case it won't start again....lol....not sure what to do.
 
PTTaylor said:
Boy now I'm screwed....went out this morning prepared to remove driver's seat to try and troubleshhot clutch safety switch and BAM car started no problem...turned it off...waited a few minutes and it started again no prob. Now I don't have any idea what caused the problem in the first place and not sure about taking the car out in case it won't start again....lol....not sure what to do.
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Once started, turn every electrical thing on.....a/c on high, radio, heated seats(if), and make sure high beams are on. Go for a ride staying close to home. It should "die" a lot sooner than usual. Once dead, shut all electrics off.....wait 30-45 minutes, and fire it up and drive home. You're battery is likely fine, it's not receiving charge.
 
I had a hell of a time with my C4 and an intermittent no start condition. Long story short narrowed it down to the Vehicle Anti Theft System (VATS). I don't know what a C6 has for VATS, but my problem was solved with an electronic unit purchased from "New Rockies". The unit was wired into the CPU and the car has started without fail since. Downside is I no longer have any VATS, except that its a 6 spd manual and apparently the crooks are not smart enough to use that. Mayb try a google search for GM intermittent no start for 2007?
 
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Dave91TM said:
I had a hell of a time with my C4 and an intermittent no start condition. Long story short narrowed it down to the Vehicle Anti Theft System (VATS). I don't know what a C6 has for VATS, but my problem was solved with an electronic unit purchased from "New Rockies". The unit was wired into the CPU and the car has started without fail since. Downside is I no longer have any VATS, except that its a 6 spd manual and apparently the crooks are not smart enough to use that. Mayb try a google search for GM intermittent no start for 2007?
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PTTaylor said:
I have checked the battery and the alternator....both are fine.
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PT. Did you have a power bank hooked up to your phone when these issue happened. I had a similar issue once when my phone was hooked up to a power bank in my car it would not start. As soon as I took the power bank out of the car it started it is a 2007 auto.
 
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When the ignition mode switch is placed in the START position, a discrete input is sent to the body control module (BCM) notifying it that engine start has been requested. The BCM then verifies that the brake pedal has been depressed with a discrete input from the brake pedal position sensor and that the key fob, with the correct code, is in the vehicle. After this information has been verified the BCM grounds the control side of the RUN/CRANK relay closing the switch side of it and allowing battery positive voltage to flow from the BATT 3 fuse through the RUN/CRANK relay switch, engine control module (ECM) fuse to the battery positive voltage side of the CRANK relay coil. The BCM also sends a high speed GMLAN message to the ECM requesting engine start. The ECM will then verify that the internal mode switch (IMS) is in Park / Neutral or the clutch pedal is fully depressed. After this has been verified the ECM the supplies ground to the control circuit of the CRANK relay closing the CRANK relay switch circuit and allowing battery positive voltage to flow through the STARTER fuse, the CRANK relay switch to the S-terminal of the Starter solenoid cranking the engine. Ground is supplied through the engine block.


On my 2008 Auto, DIC will complain if brake is not depressed or if fob not detected, so those
should be obvious. I would try to see if it also complains about clutch, if so I would attach a DVM
& be ready to catch the next failure.
Luck.
 
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TxFLSTC said:
When the ignition mode switch is placed in the START position, a discrete input is sent to the body control module (BCM) notifying it that engine start has been requested. The BCM then verifies that the brake pedal has been depressed with a discrete input from the brake pedal position sensor and that the key fob, with the correct code, is in the vehicle. After this information has been verified the BCM grounds the control side of the RUN/CRANK relay closing the switch side of it and allowing battery positive voltage to flow from the BATT 3 fuse through the RUN/CRANK relay switch, engine control module (ECM) fuse to the battery positive voltage side of the CRANK relay coil. The BCM also sends a high speed GMLAN message to the ECM requesting engine start. The ECM will then verify that the internal mode switch (IMS) is in Park / Neutral or the clutch pedal is fully depressed. After this has been verified the ECM the supplies ground to the control circuit of the CRANK relay closing the CRANK relay switch circuit and allowing battery positive voltage to flow through the STARTER fuse, the CRANK relay switch to the S-terminal of the Starter solenoid cranking the engine. Ground is supplied through the engine block.


On my 2008 Auto, DIC will complain if brake is not depressed or if fob not detected, so those
should be obvious. I would try to see if it also complains about clutch, if so I would attach a DVM
& be ready to catch the next failure.
Luck.
Click to expand...
FYI. Discrete Input = ON or OFF states
 
My guess is your starter is getting hot after driving it for a while causing it to work and after letting it cool down you're able to start again.
 
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