First DIY oil change

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Hey guys, so I finally had to do an oil change on the C7 Z06. My free dealer oil changes were done. The oil change for the Z06/Z51 are the same. I shot a vid, and tried to make it fun if anyone is interested. I’m not selling anything at all. If you are interested. If not then no biggie. It may help someone if you are going to try to do it yourself. Happy Sat to everyone.


 
Hey guys, the part number is 90430-12031 I find they work great on a number of different vehicles. Obviously the GM plug with the rubber gasket is better as its a rubber seal, but with the drain plugs I used, the mating surface is flat (unlike GM with the built in rubber) so I had to find a good gasket, and I find these work well. You can get them on Amazon
 
Hey There, I just have the 5000 regular one, not the extended one. I wish I had the 7000 but I bought mine about 2 years ago at Costco when they had them for 1100. I have no issues with clearance, and they stay on the floor all the time. I just push them together when I'm finished.
 
Question……..why not simply reuse the factory drain plugs or purchase OEM plugs from your GM dealer?

As well with the Z06 or Grand Sport with the dry sump I thought filling the oil required you to install approximately 75% of the required oil…..start the engine to have the oil move to the various reservoirs and then shut off the engine and complete the oil fill?
 
You could re-use the factory drain plugs, but I wanted magnetic ones, and the factory ones are not magnetic.

As for filling the car I know when the tech did it at GM they said they put in 9 and top off. Nothing wrong with putting in a little less and then running. On all the oil changes that I do I always short about 1 quart, run and check to prevent overfill.
 
I hear you, the only reason I wanted the 7000 is I have a truck so it would be really handy for the truck. The thing is maybe the 7000 would sit higher? Not sure, but I can confirm the 5000 will easily fit under the vette, and my side skirts don't interfere with it at all.
I checked the quickjack web site and the 5000 is 3 inches high when collapsed while the 7000 is 3 1/2 inches high when collapsed. Ground clearance on my 2017 GS is supposed to be 5 inches and the bottom of my splitter is 5 inches while the side skirts are a bit more than 4 1/2 so in theory a 7000 should work. Guess I need to watch for a sale.
 
If you can get the 7000 I would go for it. Just keep checking Costco, they seem to be the most reasonable. I've used the 5000 to lift everything so far, but would have liked the extra capacity of the 7000. Unfortunately Costco only had the 5000 when I bought. I'm very happy with it, but would have preferred the 7000 if given the choice.
 
I have the 7000 and it has no problem picking up the car. It also has enough clearance to set up the ramps under the pucks. I purchased it two years ago from Costco.
 
Probably a silly question, but wouldn’t it be a lot cheaper to either build a set of wood ramps out of 2 x 12’s, or 2 x 12 blocks, jacking up each corner of the car………probably would require 12” of depth to fully get underneath the car. I don’t know about you but I would feel much safer getting under the car with wood underneath it versus that QuickJack lift!
 
Probably a silly question, but wouldn’t it be a lot cheaper to either build a set of wood ramps out of 2 x 12’s, or 2 x 12 blocks, jacking up each corner of the car………probably would require 12” of depth to fully get underneath the car. I don’t know about you but I would feel much safer getting under the car with wood underneath it versus that QuickJack lift!
That is why many will simply put jack stands under the car after for peace of mind. Everyone is different.

I use race ramps majority of the time as I much prefer them to the QJ, but an actual 4 post lift is the most ideal if have the room/budget for it.
 
That is why many will simply put jack stands under the car after for peace of mind. Everyone is different.

I use race ramps majority of the time as I much prefer them to the QJ, but an actual 4 post lift is the most ideal if have the room/budget for it.
After I wrote my note I started to think that with home made wood ramps I doubt you would get the necessary height on the rears that you could accomplish with the fronts due in part to the side skirts limiting the height of the rear ramps…….I doubt as well that GM would recommend the oil to be drained with the front end higher than the rear due to residual oil remaining in the sump and/or crank case?

Would you be able to share a photo of your set up?
 
After I wrote my note I started to think that with home made wood ramps I doubt you would get the necessary height on the rears that you could accomplish with the fronts due in part to the side skirts limiting the height of the rear ramps…….I doubt as well that GM would recommend the oil to be drained with the front end higher than the rear due to residual oil remaining in the sump and/or crank case?

Would you be able to share a photo of your set up?

Sure can, Will have to grab some pictures of what I'm currently using. Lift is not up yet, have not time to install it.

As for the ramps, flat is always best but same time I don't see to big of a deal with putting it up the ramps on an incline. If take your time the oil level behind in reservoir will not be that much IMO. If I decide to get really anal I put it up on all 4 wheel cribs and do it, usually beginning or end of the season and that way it is completely flat.
 
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