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I'm late to the party here, but a few things to consider:

1. Given your description of the manner of the theft, you were being watched. Someone knew the car was there and knew they could get it.

2. Programming a new key with most modern OBDII cars is easy peasy. I've seen guys commenting on boxes and laptops. Well, they don't need a laptop. If you know where the dark corners are on the web, you can buy a "kit" that will reporgram a key in seconds. Just plug it into the OBDII port and hit a button. Bingo! New key fob.

3. Anything in the car that is in the computer system is vulnerable. That would include onstar. Again, if you have the knowledge, it's a simple plug into the OBDII port with a bluetooth adapter and then you can use and app on your phone to turn options on and off at will. Onstar is simply a matter of changing a 0 to a 1 (or similar) and it's off. I do the same things to my cars and friends cars. For example, I added adaptive cruise and lane keeping to my 2016 F150. The hardware just plugged into the harness and the computer already held all the codes, they were just turned off. A couple keystrokes and it was all working. Manufacturers don't make 20 different wiring harnesses for vehciles anymore. They generally make only a couple different main harnesses and plug in harness extentions as needed for options. Same in the management systems: they make one system that runs all the options and acessories and then the turn options on/off in the software. It's just cheaper for them to have one system designing and then "hobble it" as needed.

4. He likely had a fob if he just walked up, got in the car and left. You can program a fob pretty quickly, but your description leads me to believe he either had a valid fob, or (as you were being watched) they captured your signal and bootlegged it into a blank fob. The other, more disturbing, possibility is that the thief works with (or knows) the dealer and they programmed a fob to use at a later date.

5. If you had a garage opener in there (or homelink programmer) change your door codes right now! It doesn't always happen, but thieves will often steal/buglarize a car, take the door remotes and when the owners are out they get into the house through the garage. Once theyre in the garage, they close the door and have all the time int he world to break in through your man door. It's unlikely you will ever see them around your place again, but better not to take chances.

Anti-theft:

The things already mentioned are good, but I have a few variations on them that I use.

1. Starter kill. Pretty simple, except thieves know how to disable them. Even more so if you have it "professionally installed". Installers all use pretty much the same techinques, so a thief pretty much knows where to go to rip it out. I use what's known as a "reed switch". Basically, it's the same thing you see on the door/window alarms. The reed switch is a normally open switch, but whn you put a magnet next to it, it causes the metal "reed" to flip over and make contact with another strip in the switch itself. this makes continuity and whatever system you have interrupted now works. I hide my reed switch behind a plastic panel somewhere and only I know where to stick the magnet. I also usually interrupt the fueling circuit. Why not the starter? Well, start defeats thieves are pretty well versed on and can find it in very short order. But with a fuel kill, they can start it, they may even get a couple dozen feet with it and then it just dies. Now the thief is in a stalled stolen car in the middle of the road somewhere and it will crank but not start. That's attention they don't want and will usually just bail right there before someone starts asking question or offering help.

2. Alarms. Well, I'm not a fan of them. Except for one type: the have an option for shutdown and a range of .5-1 miles. I like these for the car jacking issue (used to travel through the US a lot where its a bigger concern than CA). What they alow you to do is when they shove a gun or something in your face at a stop, you just put up your hands and get out. Then, as they get about a block or two away, you pull out your fob and hit the "kill" button. Car stops in the middle of the road and again, car jackers usually don't want to deal with that and just bail. You walk up a couple blocks (once you are sure it's safe), get in your car and drive away.

3. OBDII port. Thieves access the vehicle management system through the OBDII port. There are a couple ways you can foil them. One way is to cut the power wire and install a switch. When the thieves plug in, there's no power and the scanner just doesn't see anything. The switch is now a problem though, a thief sticking their head under there will see it and off they go. Here's what I do: first, I make a trip to the scrap yard. I find a car similar to what I'm driving (or same manufacturer). I cut out the OBDII port and a foot or two of wiring to it (or however long I can get). Then, at home, I unbolt the factory OBDII port and tuck it up inside the dash somewhere well out of sight. Then I bolt my "fake" port in place of thereal one and run the wiring up into the harness somewhere. I finish with a good black vinyl tape wrap to conceal the wiring, making it look factory. Now, if a thief plugs in, they get nothing. They take a few seconds to check things but nothing looks out of place, so they take off. The longer they are there, the more likely they are to get caught and they know it. Truthfully, I more do this to keep dealer techs out of my vehicle system. I've had dealer techs arbitrarily hook up the OBDII scanner and just update my ECM. They did that once on my truck and it messed up my drive-ability and MPG. I supposedI could have bught one of those port locks, but this is a sure fire way to know they aren't downloading/uploading crap in my truck without my knowledge. The vehcile might need an OEM update, but don't do it unless you ask me first.....

By looking at the stripped pictures, this car was pirated for it's parts. There was never any other plan, so I'd say most of them were already "purchased" before they even came off the car. You can see they took all the wear and crash damaged items like the doors, rear bumper, engine, trans, etc. They left things like the abs computer, brake master, etc. The missing parts are what body shops and repair shops are usually looking for because they go quick. Had the car not been recovered stripped, it would have likely been in a container and heading overseas. Professional thieves don't steal cars to resell in the same continent, much more likley to get caught and it's harder to "re-vin" a car in NA than other parts of the world. And parts.....well, pretty much untraceable. they sell them where ever they want. But most are smart enough to not sell them locally. They go across country or down across the 49th....

Sorry someone got your car, that really sucks. There can't be severe enough punishment for someone who steals something someone else has worked so hard for.....

 
I watched the video. That is not a relay attack. The speed at which he went from run to car and get in indicates he had a fob on him. The relay attack requires some time to get a good signal, cell phone, metal doors, microwave, being in a basement tends to weaken the signal and requires it to keep "trying" to get a clean one. What if you had gone to the backyard at that moment? Or was in the basement or you heated up something in the microwave? It would make the thief stand at the door waiting until he got a clean signal. The lack of anything but shorts on the guy leans towards he's got a fob too. It seems like he's been doing this "walk" for awhile. ie he had a routine he followed to ensure he walked near your place to check for the car.

The "inside" job seems more and more likely. They took parts they needed/wanted/or had already sold ahead of time. Anyone know of any wrecked z06/gs cars in the past year or so?
 
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😲 Pro, inside job. No way that was an electronically hacked signal job. In and out....On the positive side, if it is an inside job (i.e. someone from the dealership, or from another service center) it will be easier to investigate and get to the bottom of.
 
A little late, but this method will tell you how many fobs are programmed for your car. If your display reads waiting on #3 you are good, any more than that and the fobs are not in your possession, then I'd consider that a problem.

Programming with Recognized Transmitters

A new transmitter can be programmed to the vehicle when there are two recognized transmitters.

1. The vehicle must be off and both the recognized and new transmitters must be with you.
2. Place the two recognized transmitters in the cup holder.
3. Insert the vehicle key into the key cylinder located above the license plate.
4. Open the hatch/trunk.
5. Turn the key five times within ten seconds.
6. The DIC displays READY FOR REMOTE #2, 3, or 4.
7. Place the new transmitter in the steering column transmitter pocket with the buttons facing up and the base toward the opening facing the passenger side.
8. Press the ENGINE START/STOP button.
9. The DIC displays READY FOR REMOTE # 4 or 5, up to 8
10. Press Unlock on each newly programmed transmitter to complete the process.
11. To Program additional transmitters, repeat Steps 8-11. Press and hold the ENGINE START/STOP button for 12 seconds if programming is complete. Return the key back into RKE transmitter.

I'd be curious to get my hands on the BCM and have Chevy look at it to see how many fobs were programmed for it.
 
A little late, but this method will tell you how many fobs are programmed for your car. If your display reads waiting on #3 you are good, any more than that and the fobs are not in your possession, then I'd consider that a problem.

Programming with Recognized Transmitters

A new transmitter can be programmed to the vehicle when there are two recognized transmitters.

1. The vehicle must be off and both the recognized and new transmitters must be with you.
2. Place the two recognized transmitters in the cup holder.
3. Insert the vehicle key into the key cylinder located above the license plate.
4. Open the hatch/trunk.
5. Turn the key five times within ten seconds.
6. The DIC displays READY FOR REMOTE #2, 3, or 4.
7. Place the new transmitter in the steering column transmitter pocket with the buttons facing up and the base toward the opening facing the passenger side.
8. Press the ENGINE START/STOP button.
9. The DIC displays READY FOR REMOTE # 4 or 5, up to 8
10. Press Unlock on each newly programmed transmitter to complete the process.
11. To Program additional transmitters, repeat Steps 8-11. Press and hold the ENGINE START/STOP button for 12 seconds if programming is complete. Return the key back into RKE transmitter.

I'd be curious to get my hands on the BCM and have Chevy look at it to see how many fobs were programmed for it.

Wow. It would have been good to know this, I would have done it everytime my car came back from a service.
 
The dealer you bought it at, the pic you showed us looks like a higher end dealer. It seems unusual given the time you bought it, the weather finally opening up to drive it, and a thief waiting in the wings to steal it. It's too coincidental. I feel like if the place was raiding some "zo6" components would be hanging on the walls...
 
Interesting videos; thanks for sharing. I'm wondering if all the vehicles we see in the videos are accounted for (ie. belong to the street). And the white SUV parked in front of your house in particular, since someone could have been inside of it acting as the "spotter" to phone the actual thief to come get the car. It's odd he knew to walk by just then. If that's possible, perhaps a camera looking on the street caught the licence plate number for any such "rogue vehicle" and that might lead to someone's ID.

Have you learned from the police if any other vehicles sold/serviced by that same dealer mysteriously disappeared not too long after the vehicle left the dealership, using what was likely a duplicate fob?

Any luck finding a replacement Vette yet?
 
Interesting videos; thanks for sharing. I'm wondering if all the vehicles we see in the videos are accounted for (ie. belong to the street). And the white SUV parked in front of your house in particular, since someone could have been inside of it acting as the "spotter" to phone the actual thief to come get the car. It's odd he knew to walk by just then. If that's possible, perhaps a camera looking on the street caught the licence plate number for any such "rogue vehicle" and that might lead to someone's ID.

Have you learned from the police if any other vehicles sold/serviced by that same dealer mysteriously disappeared not too long after the vehicle left the dealership, using what was likely a duplicate fob?

Any luck finding a replacement Vette yet?

The vehicles that were parked were all ok. It’s the vehicle that drive by after. That I am not familiar with, could be follow car or it could be random person driving that day.
Police are keeping all are looking at all options. I sure they have checked out the dealer. The dealer is pretty reputable.

Looking for a replacement. But working with a budget that is certainly limiting me.
 
Sure looks to be an inside job.
I figure the dealership ‘boys’ made a fob when the car came into the shop, knowing it would most likely be sold locally. Then I think they had some sort of survellience, maybe a neighbour that is a relative/friend of someone who that works at the dealership...?
Someone called someone the moment you took that car out of the garage that day.
I also figured there must be a way that GM is aware of a new fob made.. I did not think of the car actually recording this. Interesting.
I wonder how many other cars at that dealership have extra fobs made?
I wonder if other cars have been stolen from the dealership or soon after a sale?
I’m also thinking prior owner and involving ONSTAR somehow.
this wasn’t random.

graham
 
Sure looks to be an inside job.
I figure the dealership ‘boys’ made a fob when the car came into the shop, knowing it would most likely be sold locally. Then I think they had some sort of survellience, maybe a neighbour that is a relative/friend of someone who that works at the dealership...?
Someone called someone the moment you took that car out of the garage that day.
I also figured there must be a way that GM is aware of a new fob made.. I did not think of the car actually recording this. Interesting.
I wonder how many other cars at that dealership have extra fobs made?
I wonder if other cars have been stolen from the dealership or soon after a sale?
I’m also thinking prior owner and involving ONSTAR somehow.
this wasn’t random.

graham

It was a set up for sure. Hopefully the Police will figure it out.
 
A little late, but this method will tell you how many fobs are programmed for your car. If your display reads waiting on #3 you are good, any more than that and the fobs are not in your possession, then I'd consider that a problem.

Programming with Recognized Transmitters

A new transmitter can be programmed to the vehicle when there are two recognized transmitters.

1. The vehicle must be off and both the recognized and new transmitters must be with you.
2. Place the two recognized transmitters in the cup holder.
3. Insert the vehicle key into the key cylinder located above the license plate.
4. Open the hatch/trunk.
5. Turn the key five times within ten seconds.
6. The DIC displays READY FOR REMOTE #2, 3, or 4.
7. Place the new transmitter in the steering column transmitter pocket with the buttons facing up and the base toward the opening facing the passenger side.
8. Press the ENGINE START/STOP button.
9. The DIC displays READY FOR REMOTE # 4 or 5, up to 8
10. Press Unlock on each newly programmed transmitter to complete the process.
11. To Program additional transmitters, repeat Steps 8-11. Press and hold the ENGINE START/STOP button for 12 seconds if programming is complete. Return the key back into RKE transmitter.

I'd be curious to get my hands on the BCM and have Chevy look at it to see how many fobs were programmed for it.
Update Warning Information ...
Just found out first-hand yesterday that reprogramming remote key fobs for CANADIAN C7 Corvettes
most likely takes a different method than what is being shared in the USA (for USA C7 Corvettes).

I discussed this with my Dealership yesterday and they concurred that the process for removing all existing key fobs
to reprogram for only two fobs that you have, cannot be done with the USA C7 method. I tried it while at the Dealership and it
would not us to continue thru the process :angelic: So I am having my GM Dealership reprogram for only two fobs - and I absolutely trust them 100%.

I can only guess that this difference has something unrelated to do with the software programming that is required for Canadian
requirements ... as in for daytime running lights and etc.
 
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interesting. I would only do a wipe if the car was asking for more than the 2 fobs I have on hand.
I cannot elaborate on reasoning - it's confidential on a need-to-know-basis ...
but it's unless the Canadian C7 Corvette does not recognize the process
for finding how many fobs there are
or you know there is a "lost" key fob ... or any other reason.

I would actually recommend reprogramming key-fobs
to every person who buys a used C7 now
just for piece-of-mind ... the cost is worth it
by knowledge of this gone-in-9-seconds thread alone.
 
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