I know this is a long shot but look and see if your side post battery is leaking. My C5 had this problem and the acid leaked down into the wiring harness and it screwed up my air conditioning. I hope for your sake this is not the cause because you have to remove the fender to gain access to this. Not nice! Also check the control module that is in the same vicinity if you have to down that path.
 
I checked all fuses. Last year I replaced the regulator and decided to replace the fan at the same time. Everything worked fine after that. This year the fan wouldn't blow. I tested the fan by wiring it straight to the battery, it worked fine. So I guessed that the regulator was the issue. But it was brand new hardly used. So I complained to Four Seasons where I got them from through Rock Auto. Their rep from this area contacted me and gave me a new regulator and fan in exchange for my current ones. He told me that three things can cause the blower motor not to work. Two of them I replaced the third is the wiring leading to the regulator from the control panel. But this is my week spot (electrical) I don't understand it. I tried an amp test but I'm not sure if I did it right???? So I will check some of the above and hope I find something. Thanks for your responses.
 
I checked all fuses. Last year I replaced the regulator and decided to replace the fan at the same time. Everything worked fine after that. This year the fan wouldn't blow. I tested the fan by wiring it straight to the battery, it worked fine. So I guessed that the regulator was the issue. But it was brand new hardly used. So I complained to Four Seasons where I got them from through Rock Auto. Their rep from this area contacted me and gave me a new regulator and fan in exchange for my current ones. He told me that three things can cause the blower motor not to work. Two of them I replaced the third is the wiring leading to the regulator from the control panel. But this is my week spot (electrical) I don't understand it. I tried an amp test but I'm not sure if I did it right???? So I will check some of the above and hope I find something. Thanks for your responses.
Really, you just need to make sure there is power getting to the regulator. Voltage across the live (hot) wire to ground.
 
I checked all fuses. Last year I replaced the regulator and decided to replace the fan at the same time. Everything worked fine after that. This year the fan wouldn't blow. I tested the fan by wiring it straight to the battery, it worked fine. So I guessed that the regulator was the issue. But it was brand new hardly used. So I complained to Four Seasons where I got them from through Rock Auto. Their rep from this area contacted me and gave me a new regulator and fan in exchange for my current ones. He told me that three things can cause the blower motor not to work. Two of them I replaced the third is the wiring leading to the regulator from the control panel. But this is my week spot (electrical) I don't understand it. I tried an amp test but I'm not sure if I did it right???? So I will check some of the above and hope I find something. Thanks for your responses.
I just watched a YouTube video of a guy replacing the fan motor and control module on a C5. I am assuming that the control module is what you are calling the regulator. You did well to change those suckers way up above the passenger footwell. At 6"6" I can't get into places like that. I hope my fan always works. It was too hard to video and work under there so he didn't really show the plug connections. I would be curious to know if you have 12 volts coming from the dash controls to the control module. You don't have to do anything about amps as you mentioned. 12 volts to ground is all. There has to be 12 volts getting there from somewhere. This guy thinks there is no fuse for the fan motor. I would have to check my fuse panel diagrams to believe that.
 
Thank you yes control module is what it is. There are several fuses linked to the HVAC. The blower motor has a Maxi fuse in the footwell box. In my car it's number 51. So baby steps here. I have to measure 12 volts from the dash to the control module. The connecter coming out of the main wire loom to the control module has a black and a red wire coming from the firewall and a tan wire that comes from the dash. So the tan wire should have 12 volts running through it? So could you explain to me the procedure to test this using a multimeter? Thanks again.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6083.JPG
    IMG_6083.JPG
    1.3 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_6084.JPG
    IMG_6084.JPG
    972.1 KB · Views: 1
  • IMG_6085.JPG
    IMG_6085.JPG
    1.1 MB · Views: 1
  • IMG_6086.JPG
    IMG_6086.JPG
    1.3 MB · Views: 1
  • Like
Reactions: Bixter44
Thank you yes control module is what it is. There are several fuses linked to the HVAC. The blower motor has a Maxi fuse in the footwell box. In my car it's number 51. So baby steps here. I have to measure 12 volts from the dash to the control module. The connecter coming out of the main wire loom to the control module has a black and a red wire coming from the firewall and a tan wire that comes from the dash. So the tan wire should have 12 volts running through it? So could you explain to me the procedure to test this using a multimeter? Thanks again.
I have never had to do this in a Vette with so few grounds as compared to my other vehicles. But you set the meter on the 12V DC scale, and use the red lead to look for 12 V and the black lead has to go to ground. A test lamp is also good for this. The alligator clip is clipped to ground and the light will light if you find 12V with the probe end. If I am using a multimeter I have wires with alligator clips on both ends so I can connect the black lead from the meter to ground and not have to hold it. But the nice thing about a test lamp is that in tight quarters you don't have to be able to read a meter that is hard to prop up somewhere to view. When the test lamp lights, there's your 12V. Unplug the connector from the module. Check both wires for 12 V. Ground is usually just black, not black and red. So if you are not sure which, test them both. Don't forget to have the key on and HVAC controls set so the fan would run. If I was unsure what to use as a ground I would test something I know will have 12 V on it so I can see it. There are other modules in the same area as the fan. Maybe one of those has an obvious ground.
 
So this is what I did. I tried getting voltage readings from all sorts of connections to no avail. Things weren't adding up and I realized that even though the motor was new I never bench tested it. So I did and it worked. I put it back and check a few more wires all of them were giving me just under 12 volts. So I plugged everything back and turned on the fan. It now works. I have no idea why? It's a miracle! Halleluiah praise God.
 
So this is what I did. I tried getting voltage readings from all sorts of connections to no avail. Things weren't adding up and I realized that even though the motor was new I never bench tested it. So I did and it worked. I put it back and check a few more wires all of them were giving me just under 12 volts. So I plugged everything back and turned on the fan. It now works. I have no idea why? It's a miracle! Halleluiah praise God.
Feels good when you solve a mystery, even if you don't really know how you solved it.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 100 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Users who are viewing this thread