C3 Steering Box Removal..

nascar03

nascar03

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C3 C5 British Columbia You're a Regular King of the Post You're Celebrated
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I plan to pull my steering box from my '75 coupe and send it in to be rebuilt.
There are few shops here locally that can do this.
My question is what is the best way to pull the box from the car.
Is it best to remove the pittman arm from the box o/p shaft or is it better to remove the tapered joint at the power steering control valve end of the arm?
I've never done this before and it scares me to use any force near the control valve to break the tapered joint loose.
any suggestions..?
thanx
graham (1975 coupe).
 
Thanx Brian...
I considered Borgeson or SteerOids but I will probably just get the factory box done.
The remainder of my steering components are in great shape.
My main request is for advice as to how to get the tapered joint apart at the control valve without damaging the valve.

Thanx. Graham
 
Great video ... much appreciated..
But I have a hard time thinking I can 'wale' on a pickle fork at the control valve, without causing damage.!
Especially when I don't plan on rebuilding the control valve..!
I'm trying to find a way to separate the control valve from the pitman arm without damage.
I have been told one method is to remove the nut, place a weight behind the pitman arm joint and 'tap' the other side of the pitman arm joint with a hammer.
The taper may then 'let-go' and drop down.... I guess the amount of 'tap' is what is key here. ?!?
I'm just new to this front-end stuff.

thanx
graham
 
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That's what I was thinking large hammer on the back side and medium one to give it a whack. Hammer on the side of the taper joint is the usual shop method for regular ball joint tie rod tapers.
 
If you where a little closer, I would lend you my pitman arm puller. I took a look on google and it look like there is plenty of room to use it. Maybe you can rent one from a rental tool shop or you can get one for cheap at princess auto
http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/powerfist-pitman-arm-puller/A-p8105223e
17$ will save you problems, Make sure to center the steering wheel before you remove the pitman arm. When you put the rebuilt unit back, turn the input shat one way thrue the end then to the opposite side couting the number of turn from one end to the other so you can come back half way and be sure your box is in the center position
 
You gents raise a very good point with regards to finding a way to save the control valve. I have to admit, saving leaking parts wasn't high on my list of priorities. The pitman arm puller looks like a sure fire solution. Do you have to remove this arm when the box goes for rebuild? If so, then another reason for the purchase. Good luck with the job.
 
Hello gentlemen..
My buddy came over yesterday and we pulled the steering box, pitman arm attached, from my '75 .
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.!
To gain better access to the control valve we dropped one tie-rod end using a ball-joint separator tool.
I then put the pickle fork in place at the pitman arm and the valve,(fork facing forward), a few light whacks and it came apart.
Doesn't appear to have damaged anything. That was always my worry.
Then we went after the rag joint and the three bolts holding the box to the frame.
We managed to get everything apart and out without pulling the headers or steering column. We did have to remove the alternator though.
All-in-all the job wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.
We didn't have to learn any new 'words'... when we were stuck we just used some old ones!! LOL
enjoy.

I'll post some pics of the rebuilt box going back in in a couple of weeks.
thanx
graham
 
Well done Graham. Some extra tools for the box, never a bad thing.

Great contributions guys, that is what makes this place special.

Glad it worked out.
 
Thanx T...
The box has been kept pretty clean over that past 34 years.!! That box has 160,000 miles on it. Lol

I may replace the rag joint as well, since it is basically in my hand.
I have to pull the steering column to possibly replace my tach circuit board.
My amp gauge, clock and tach are not working after sitting for a while..
I'm hoping it is just a bad ground.. I'll have to pull the gauge pod and dash pads to get in there and look.
Are you putting in a Borgenson joint??
Are you staying with the factory power steering set-up too? Steroids..? Full Borgenson conversion..?
Shoot me a pic.

Graham
 
Factory PS. I rebuilt the valve and cylinder while they were off the chassis. My PS is running off the pump on the LS1 (1998 Camaro) that I have installed. I am not sure about the u-joint yet since I haven't decided about my steering column. I may have to do a custom jobber u-joint. Everything needs to be cleaned up still but here are some pics.
20140411_205027.jpg 20140411_204952.jpg 20140411_205011.jpg
 
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