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<blockquote data-quote="1st Vette" data-source="post: 331305" data-attributes="member: 8909"><p>Hi . There are two ways that kitchen counter receptacles are wired. The first way is to run #14/3 nmd-90 to the receptacle removing the metal tab between the dark screws on the “ hot “ side of the receptacle so that the top and bottom are actually separate dedicated circuits. You can no more than two “ split “ receptacles on a two pole 15 amp breaker and they can’t be adjacent. The other way is to run 12/2 from a single pole 20 amp breaker to only one receptacle , obviously not split .</p><p> Dishwasher requires a dedicated circuit, usually 15 amp . So I suspect that y circuit was not installed by a qualified electrician. At least I would hope not. So if you are intending to use that three wire for a counter plug you will need the red . I hope you haven’t chopped it.</p><p> Now for what you are seeing on your meter , and Fluke make quality instruments incidentally. I can’t see where either of your meter leads are so I need to know that as well as where the other end of the red wire is. When you say power the black do you mean turning on the breaker? You can often read a voltage on an unconnected wire that is adjacent to a conductor which has current flow on it due to induction. That is how electric motors and transformers function, so I need more information to understand why you are getting 48volts . In this situation you normally wouldn’t see that high of an induced current/voltage . Was there a load , something connected to the black when you took the reading and where were the meter leads . Bear in mind any kitchen counter receptacles within, I believe 600 mm from the sink , don’t quote me on that it’s been a while since I did any residential work, must be GFCI type. You can get 20 amp GFCI receptacles but they don’t make GFCI receptacles for split 15 amp receptacles so you have to use a two pole 15amp GFCI breaker which are much more expensive than a 20 amp GFCI receptacle.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="1st Vette, post: 331305, member: 8909"] Hi . There are two ways that kitchen counter receptacles are wired. The first way is to run #14/3 nmd-90 to the receptacle removing the metal tab between the dark screws on the “ hot “ side of the receptacle so that the top and bottom are actually separate dedicated circuits. You can no more than two “ split “ receptacles on a two pole 15 amp breaker and they can’t be adjacent. The other way is to run 12/2 from a single pole 20 amp breaker to only one receptacle , obviously not split . Dishwasher requires a dedicated circuit, usually 15 amp . So I suspect that y circuit was not installed by a qualified electrician. At least I would hope not. So if you are intending to use that three wire for a counter plug you will need the red . I hope you haven’t chopped it. Now for what you are seeing on your meter , and Fluke make quality instruments incidentally. I can’t see where either of your meter leads are so I need to know that as well as where the other end of the red wire is. When you say power the black do you mean turning on the breaker? You can often read a voltage on an unconnected wire that is adjacent to a conductor which has current flow on it due to induction. That is how electric motors and transformers function, so I need more information to understand why you are getting 48volts . In this situation you normally wouldn’t see that high of an induced current/voltage . Was there a load , something connected to the black when you took the reading and where were the meter leads . Bear in mind any kitchen counter receptacles within, I believe 600 mm from the sink , don’t quote me on that it’s been a while since I did any residential work, must be GFCI type. You can get 20 amp GFCI receptacles but they don’t make GFCI receptacles for split 15 amp receptacles so you have to use a two pole 15amp GFCI breaker which are much more expensive than a 20 amp GFCI receptacle. [/QUOTE]
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